Friday, 8 April 2011

Sunscreens for Face


SPF  - Protecting your Face First

I will discuss the SPF and Sunscreen issues about your face and helping you avoid burning, skin-cancer, wrinkles and sun-spot damage.

*     4 Areas will be covered so you’ll be covered from UVA/UVB rays:
Sunscreens for the face
Moisturizers with built in SPF
Foundations with SPF
Powder with SPF
*     And lastly…
             Sunblock for the body
             After-Sun Care

I’m not going to preach to you about staying out of the sun as that just ain’t going to happen for me, you or anyone who lives in a country where we literally are ready to get down on our knees and praise hallelujah if it doesn’t snow or rain for 2 months. Instead I’m just offering facts and situations that are realistically going to help you should you want to protect yourself from age/sun-spots, wrinkles and skin cancer.  There’s nothing worse then a Boomer pointing to every sun-spot and wrinkle (in the same fashion they whip out grandkids photos) telling me this one comes from sitting out in the backyard greased up with Baby-Oil holding a reflector under their face, and this one comes from the years on the cottage patio. Really doesn’t matter, we’re all going to accept the fact that our generation will have hearing issues, and the next…let’s hope they wont have UVX rays of some horrible radiation created by something we are innocently doing to the earth right now.

I’m not sure what’s a dirtier word, Wrinkle or Skin-Cancer, but the benefits of putting something on your face and body (15 – 20 minutes prior to sun exposure) practicing this sun ritual will no-doubt help you minimize your chances at both.

“This whole 15-20 minutes prior to sun exposure thing isn’t that easy…I never plan ahead.”

Plan to spend $600 for laser micro-derm every other month when you get up there, as there isn’t anything HQ gel or other lighteners can do to get rid of sun damage.  Just get out of bed or into the routine and you won’t cry about issues to a spa or cosmetic surgeon who loves your credit cards.

The bad boys: UVA/UVB
UVA: These are the wrinkle & skin cancer causing rays with radiation that is very damaging.
                Rays can get through glass like car windows and house windows.

UVB: The “B” stands for Burn…and that is definitely going to continue cooking the skin 12-24 hours after         
                 the initial redness fades.
                 Has immediate, harmful impact on skin, even though it cannot get through glass.

So you must be curious, how will your sunscreen protect you from the cancer causing UVA rays?
You need to look for one of the following ingredients in any moisturizer, sunscreen, foundation or powder that states it has an SPF in it.

1.      Titanium Dioxide
2.      Zinc Oxide
3.      Avobenzone  (A.K.A. butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or Parsol 1789)
4.      Mexoryl SX (L’Oreal Products like: La Roche Posay, Vichy, Ombrelle, ect..)

Memorize them.  If the foundation, cream, sunscreen doesn’t list one – it’s useless to you.
“Which is the order to put the sunscreen on?”

Sunscreen is like a shield. If you have a serum, moisturizer and sunscreen. The sunscreen is the last item to be applied.

If you have a moisturizer with an SPF in it – that’s great, put that on and follow with a powder or foundation with SPF.

If you want to wear a sunscreen, and put a foundation or powder on top that doesn’t have an SPF there is a minimal risk of affecting the sunscreen. Again, let it absorb and put it on 15-20 minutes pre-sun exposure.

Here’s some math:

Moisturizer with SPF 15+ Powder with SPF 15 = SPF 30
Primer + Foundation with SPF 15 + Powder with SPF 15 = SPF 30
Moisturizer with SPF 25 + Foundation with SPF 15 = SPF 40
Moisturizer with SPF 25 + Foundation with SPF 15 = SPF 40
Sunscreen with SPF 30 + Foundation+ Powder with SPF 15 =  SPF 45
Moisturizer with SPF 30 + Foundation with SPF 15 = SPF 45
Serum + Sunscreen with SPF 45 + Powder with SPF 15 = SPF 60
Primer with SPF 50 + Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 15 = SPF 65

Ahh…the possible combinations, all so easy to apply, and some just get better over time. Just remember that 2 products need one of the UVA protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone or Mexoryl SX.

Trouble in Sun Protecting Paradise…Don’t get SPF’ed off

Up to this point, I’ve avoided one or two factors about sunscreens and that isn’t just the fact that it leaves a glowy white residue on your skin (!)

Here is where you have to experiment, and experience product isolation and monitoring, as some of us can take Titanium Dioxide in a powder, but break out with it in a foundation. Some of us love avobenzone, but can’t use anything with Zinc Oxide in it.  If you fit under one of the previous skin-type categories such as Hyper-Sensitive, Normal to Oily, or Acne-prone, I suggest you pick up one moisturizer with sunscreen or simply one effective sunscreen for your face, slather it on for a day or two and watch for the following:

4. Redness & Swelling
5. Excessive Dryness

“Yeowch! I just spent $28 on a mattifier only to get a shiny greasy face with a minor pimple here and there and for what? To protect from the sun…?”

Patience, just practice patience and I can’t stress this enough: Keep the box and the receipt. Most reputable stores (Sephora, Shoppers) will refund and exchange products especially if you have an allergic reaction. I will do my best to list the active ingredient in the SPF products, but if you experience your skin doing something funny, you’ll know if that’s not working.

“Will I ever get the sunblock products that don’t make me break out? Is there hope?”

It really gets to a point in your life where you can’t leave the house for two days without double checking that you have that proper face-wash or concealer packed.  Some of our most valuable and important items took a few years to grasp, and as much as I toddle back to the shampoo isle in the drugstore convincing my bleachy-blonde self that I too can be generic, I am forced to return to a Salon-Approved Beauty Supply Store where there’s not one but 3 colorists helping my sorry ass get a proper conditioner. If you have gotten a few choice items in your bathroom, those precious things that you are so proud of – be aware that the right sunscreen and makeup with SPF will be your new summertime and vacation item-of-choice to put on, love, replenish, and curse if they discontinue it or change the formula.
I hope all your patio drinks are cold and your future 50 something self looks smoking hot.

Sunscreens for the Face:

Shiseido: One of the most loved, non-oily sunscreens as you only need a small amount and it doesn’t shine. A great makeup bass too.
Extra Smooth Sun Protection Cream SPF 38


Cliniderm: This product has both Titanium Dioxide & Zinc Oxide and is fragrance-free. It is formulated for sensitive skin and I recommend it for those with normal to dry skin, but it is light and non-greasy if you are combo skin. You only need a small amount  and after application it is truly fabulous for a day out in the sun.

Cliniderm Gentle Protective Lotion SPF 45

Clinique: This one leans towards more of a ‘tinted moisturizer’ as it does have a slight beige color to it making it easy for you to follow with a mineral powder with an SPF, but is a favorite as it’s light and non-greasy using
Titanium dioxide.

City Block Sheer Daily Face Protector SPF 25

Neutrogena:  Using avobenzone and Titanium dioxide this product is not only the right price, but is oil-free, lightweight, waterproof, and fragrance-free. Give it a few minutes before applying makeup on top.

 Ultra Sheer Face Sunscreen SPF 45 & 60

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